The Place
When it comes to actual ice cream, gelato and soft serve, Shanghai’s frozen treat game is real strong. From one-off heavy hitters like Dal Cuore and Gracie’s to internationally recognized chains like Grom, there is no shortage of options for keeping cool in the summer.
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So what could possibly raise the bar even higher? Enter Swirlz – the brainchild of Priscilla Young (Brut Eatery, Ms. P Burnt Cheesecake) – a 90s high school-themed ice cream bar on Yuyuan Lu that inspired us enough to sport Nokia flip-phone era text lingo in our article title.
Swirlz is all about showcasing high-quality ingredients used in making the best of frozen desserts. From simple Meiji fresh milk cream to sundaes topped with prosciutto and figs, we want it all.
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The key here is that all ice cream is made using only fresh ingredients – natural fruit purée, real milk (no engineered powders or additives with names straight out of Chem101) and whole foods to achieve the desired flavor profile. If pandan is in the name, you better believe actual pandan leaves are used in the recipe, and none of that other faux-flavored junk.
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“It’s real ice cream, not cheap soft serve, despite the softer look,” says co-founder, and Priscilla’s husband, Jun Wu (Executive Chef, Brut Eatery). Ice cream and gelato are usually frozen twice to achieve that ‘chewable’ texture, whereas soft serve, like that which you would find at KFC, is only frozen once, and consumed directly out of the ice cream machine. At Swirlz, the ice cream has a similar air content and creaminess to gelato, but the shape and texture are silky smooth, like soft serve.
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This is due to Jun’s never-ending interest in tinkering with recipes. He taught himself to make ice cream, balancing protein, sugar and fat content with natural flavoring elements, that results in a tasty treat while still maintaining a form to hold up against the summer heat.
The Food
The menu is simple – ice cream by the cone (RMB28/one flavor, RMB30/two flavors), sundaes (RMB34-44), coffee beverages (RMB22-26) and fizzes (RMB28-34) – or palate cleansing fruit purée-based soda waters with no added sugar.
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The Fig Fizz (RMB44) even sees the addition of vodka, for those wanting a cheeky mid-day cocktail disguised as a fruit soda, or for when the late-night ice cream cravings are real, but a nightcap is also necessary.
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The fresh milk flavor and dark chocolate will always remain on the menu, but the third and fourth flavor options will rotate monthly, with one focusing on seasonal fruits, like the upcoming mango passion fruit flavor, and the other focusing on a more creative concoction – think black sesame, milk tea, lemon cheesecake and pandan coconut – all of which are currently in the works.
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The current 'funky flavor' is Soy Sauce Caramel – a warming sweetness balanced by umami salt, served in a cone with a sifting of caramel dust for an added sugary pop. The seasonal fruit flavor is strawberry – a refreshing alternative to the cloyingly saccharine fake strawberry ice cream of our childhood.
The handmade ice cream cones are crafted with zero preservatives and low sugar so you can feel just a tad less guilty for satisfying your sweet tooth.
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A play on a charcuterie board, the Fig & Ham (RMB44) sees fresh fig slices and earthy thyme drizzled with a sticky caramelized fig jam. Roasted serrano ham is dehydrated into a salty crisp, while the Meiji milk ice cream base adds in that necessary hint of dairy – a nod to the artisanal cheese rounding out any charcuterie spread.
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The Ferrero Flare (RMB42) is modeled off its titular candy – a Ferrero Rocher. Dark chocolate ice cream is smothered in crumbled hazelnuts, shaved chocolate and a thick hazelnut chocolate sauce, while chocolate wafers serve as the ideal dippers.
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An all-around frozen bite of nostalgic glee, the Movie Night (RMB36) is as glutinous as it is glorious. American movie theater buttered popcorn, oreo crumble, toasted peanuts and caramel sauce cover every inch of the milky ice cream base, truly encompassing the breadth of after-school snacks that graced our teenage years.
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Coming soon, the Diplomatico Rum Piña Colada Sundae is made with actual piña colada flavored ice cream as the base, that clocks in around 3% ABV – no harm in getting a buzz going with your sugar high. Studded with real bits of shaved coconut, this boozy ice cream comes topped with pineapple chunks, pineapple juice, shredded coconut and the quintessential cherry on top.
This is the first of many collaborations to come with both local and international brands to bring atypical yet extraordinary flavors to an ice cream near you.
The Vibe
The store is fully open and as energetic as the high school hangout its modeled after – schoolhouse desk seating and all – and the grand opening party will take place tonight, May 25 from 7-9pm, to really kick of the ice cream season.
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Price: RMB30-50
Who’s Going: The Yuyuan Lu coffee crowd, ice cream fiends and late-night snackers
Good For: Sugar highs, work breaks and novelty dessert craving satisfaction
See a listing for Swirlz. Read more Shanghai Restaurant Reviews.
[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]
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